Friday, February 7, 2014

The beauty of Malaysia

I heard the beat of the drums and looked out of the window. Down in the street, in front of the Hindu temple, the one decked with colorful images of Hindu gods, was a Chinese procession taking place for their New Year celebrations. I looked at the bobbing heads of the red and golden dragons with the long bodies dancing as if giant waves in the ocean. I'm always fascinated by the Chinese colors and find it hard to digest the fact that a commoner was not allowed to wear colors in Imperial China.  Red and gold were reserved for the royalty and a commoner could loose his head for daring to wear it.

Thinking about the forbidden city and all the restrictions of an era gone by, I watched the long procession head slowly towards the Chinese temple situated right across the Hindu temple at the other side of the mall complex that separated it from the building of the Muslim mosque.

Finally, I turned back and looked inside the hotel room and my eyes wandered cross the ceiling to where an arrow indicated the direction of Ka'baa for the Muslims to pray. I smiled to myself. This was the beauty of MALAYSIA!

I had never been to the country in my childhood but I was accustomed to seeing Malay pilgrims that used to come to Saudi Arabia. People from all over the world travel to Saudi Arabia for the purpose. The Indonesians and Malaysians are two of the most respected ones for being the most organized and quiet. Unlike many other groups that come without any idea of the rites and rituals to be performed, Malaysian pilgrims are well briefed on what to do. They stay together in groups and peacefully perform the rites without causing or getting into trouble.

I had a stereotype image of a typical Malaysian in my childhood and was not let down on my visits to the country as an adult.

Crossing a bridge from Singapore to Johor Bahru, Malaysia, not only brings one to a whole new terrain but to a completely different world of its own. The culture, language and economics are entirely different. Singapore is a tiny country, the size of a city, that is hub of financial world. The atmosphere there is brusque and polished. Businesslike resembling New York in its manner.

Malaysia on the other hand carries a relaxed and laid back attitude. It's a home to three major religions. It is a Muslim country but with large populations of Hindus and Buddhists whose forefathers came from India and China as workers during British rule and got settled. The country got her independence in 1963. The ethnic tension among religious factions in 1969 led to religious rights which have been upheld ever since. The Sultan becomes the ruler for an appointed time after which another Sultan takes charge.

Humble and hardworking is how I will describe a common Malaysian. They keep to themselves and since they don't interfere in others' lives, they do not expect others to interfere in theirs. The famous city of Kuala Lumpur with its majestic and one time tallest building of the world, twin towers, is very modern but it lacks the rushed feel in the atmosphere which is typically associated with big cities. The general tranquility among citizens still prevails as it's their way of life.

Economic prosperity and growth has been hailed as the cause of general harmony and peace in the country but in my opinion there are other, more deeper reasons at work alongside as well. The security and individual freedom to live life according to one's own belief system with equal respect is the major factor in the placidity found in characters. There are Buddhist women walking by in mini skirts but no one makes passes at them. There are Muslim women clad in hijab working confidently in all walks of life and no one snickers at them. There is a general air of mutual respect that subdues an outsider into awe and admiration.

The only negative trait that I can mention is the speed or rather the lack of it. They are hardworking but take their time, probably because competition is not in their training. The security brings in peace which leads to placid natures. Malaysians with their down to earth demeanors are kind hearted, gentle and sincere people. They laugh gently but easily and their eyes tear up for others. They keep busy in their daily routines, taking time to finish and live comfortably in their simple lives.

A huge number of newly weds from Asian countries, especially from Indian sub continent pick Malaysia as their destination for honeymoon. Number one reason is cost and second one is the religious freedom. Muslim couples can enjoy all the historical landmarks and beautiful beaches while enjoying Halal food and dress modestly without any embarrassment of being stared down by others like in Hawaii or Spanish seasides. Non Muslim couples also pick Malaysia for the modesty in the air.

No matter where you stay, a mosque and a temple is always nearby. The mosques have segregated areas for men and women. A large number of women pray in the mosques, something not very common in other Muslim countries around the world. There are sets of white skirt and long head cover stacked up in every mosque. Although all Muslim women cover their hair and are always modestly dressed up, many put on the white skirt and long head cover to hide their colored clothes upon entering the praying area of the mosque. Wearing these white skirt sets gives a feel of equality when everyone stands up, shoulder to shoulder, in rows to pray. All distinctions cease to exist as every Muslim woman stands with her head bowed in humility in prayer. (Same is true for the men. The only difference is in clothing but all men are also modestly clad). The women remove the borrowed skirt sets after prayers and place them back to the original place after neatly folding them.

Every Mosque has TV sets installed where a translation of the sermon runs in English on Fridays. It is mandatory for Muslim men to perform Friday prayer in congregation which is preceded by a sermon. The sermon is delivered in Malay but it's translation in English can be read on tv screens by foreigners like me.

Being a Muslim, I'm more familiar with the Mosques and the Islamic side of Malaysia but a large influx of non Muslim tourists is a clear indication of her hospitality for all. The 140 feet tall Hindu deity's statue guarding the entrance of Batu caves is a silent witness to visits of countless Hindus who come to pray at the temple on top of 272 leg burning steps. Batu caves is home to one of the most popular Hindu shrines outside India. Many non Hindu tourists also visit for tourism purpose and climb the stairs to marvel at the beauty of ages old caves. This mix of cultures and tolerance of individual choices, faiths and respect for religious practices is the real beauty of Malaysia.

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